Making Dum-Dum Bullets

This is how to make your bullet alot better, doing this is actually illegal so do not do it, and if you do, make sure no-one finds out.

This is very easy to do. Get a handgun bullet and very carefully with plier pull the actual bullet out of the cartridge. Then hammer down the end until it is flat yet even. Then, with a hacksaw, carve a perfect cross into it, put it back in the cartridge and load it into your gun.

When you shoot someone with this bullet it will split open upon impact causing an extremely damaging wound, this wound is nearly always fatal as it blows a hole about 10 inch diameter through your victim. Not very nice.

Note: This bullet is very innaccurate and will miss if your victim is over 10 meters away, however this is extremely effective and also extremely illegal, I do not reccomend this for usage. This document is for information purposes only and should not be manifested and used in real life.

Lego Silencer

 Items needed:

-round dowel (wood or rubber) that is the diameter of the pipe (it must fit tightly into the pipe so it doesn't fall out).)

-handlebar grip (the kind used on mountainbike handlebars) basically a long thin tube of rubber that is a fair thickness like that of a handlebar grip.

-pipe approx. 4-6 inches long which is not more than a few millimeters bigger than the handlebar grip in diameter.

- lego tires. the ones from the older lego. They were all one piece and kind of looked like this [ ]------------[ ] the 'rims' that the tires were on were redthe rest of the lego piece was usually black.

Instructions: take the pipe (I used a metal one with the pipe walls being only about a millimeter thickness) and slide the rubber handlebar grip all the way over it so the outside of the pipe is covered with the grip. Now take the lego tires (take them off the lego 'rims'. all you need is the tires themselves) and slide them down the inside of the pipe so they are evenly spaced at approx. half a centimeter from each other all the way down the inside of the pipe.

The tires should be a tight, snug fit as you are pushing down the pipe otherwise they will fall out of the pipe. so choose your pipe diameter accordingly. Leave some space free from lego tires inside the pipe at both ends. you will need to take the dowel (rubber or wood) and drill a hole exactly in the center which is approx. a millemeter bigger than a .22 cal. bullet.

Now you need to force it in one end of the silencer. This will become the "muzzle" (where the bullet comes out)of the silencer. Now wrap masking tape around the end of the barrel of your gun until the diameter of the tape is as thick as the inside diameter of your silencer. Finally you can now slide your silencer onto the end of your gunbarrel. Make sure it is a presice fit and that the muzzle of your gun lines up perfectly with the muzzle of your silencer otherwise the bullet will take the silencer with it next time you fire the gun.

When you fire the gun you will hear a high pitched noise (like a tweet) simmilar to what you hear on movies when someone uses a silencer. This takes approx. a couple hours to make and is fairly easy to make. I got the idea for this from other articles on this website, all I did was try to think of some alternate materials which would be easier to find around the house. But this works really great and you can make a bunch of them really easily and quickly for all your firearms. I only tried it on a .22 LR rifle using supersonic rounds, but I'm sure it would work on other calibers as well as long as you always make sure that the bullet itself is able to easily fit throught all the tires and the end dowel otherwise your silencer will be history the first time you try it. 

How to Make a Taser

 To make an extremly cheap taser all you need to do is take apart a disposable camera and keep the green card. then put a wire on the little metal part that sticks out next to the capacitor (the black thing), and put another wire somewere else (just about anywere will do as long as it touches metal). also the two wires that connect capacitor to the rest of the camera are quite good. To charge the taser just press the button that charges the flash. It is a good idea to put tape over the rest of the taser so you don't shock yourself. This taser won't be anywere near as good as a professional one but it works.

...moo... 

How to Make a Crossbow

 How to Make a Crossbow

Supplies:

1 Piece of wood to make the stock

( a 2x4 will not be big enough, 2x6 should work, if you can find one.)

1 Leaf spring from car

(only one section is needed)

1 Cable to use as spring

( The break cable from the same car you got the spring out of would be perfect. If not bow string will work also.)

Hammer and nails

Material for bolts( wooden dowels, construction type bolts, large nails, ect.)

Welding equipment (optional) if you don't have any, or can't borrow any some epoxy glue sould work.

Lets get started.

Take the piece of wood you are using for the stock and cut it into roughly this shape:

Sorry about the picture, but I hope you get the idea, it should look like a rifle without a barell, in fact you could even use a rifle without a barell if you wanted to, but it would have to have wood running a good distance along under the barell. A play rifle, like the type you get at Disneyland would work to. The overall length of the wood should be about the same as the length of the leaf spring you plan to use.

Now take your nails and hammer in a support for the spring (leaf spring from car). It should be located about 3 inches from the front of the stock.

The spring will be in front of this, so you might want to make it slightly curved, make sure you use ALOT of nails here, as all the pull of the spring will be working against them.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to reinforce the nails with more nails like this:

Hammer in the reinforceing nails first(the diagonal ones) then put the straight ones right infront of them.

Now a word about the leaf spring:

You can get a leaf spring off almost any car, ideally it will be one found in a junkyard,or one of the ones you see striped, along the freeway. You might be able to find one just lying around in a juckyard or wreaking lot also.

Any way, when you get it, it will be a lot of leafs all bound together to make a spring. You have to cut this binding, of just pry it off, and seperate one leaf. Depending on the size of the spring you get. You will probably want one of the small or medium sized leafs. Remember, the bigger the leaf the more powerful the crossbow, but also the bigger and heavyer it must be. I would go with a small leaf.

Now to string the leaf. First you will want to file some grooves, about an inch in from both ends of the leaf, and about half a centimeter deep:

Now take your cable or string, if it is a bowstring, it will already have loops at each end, if you are using some other type of thin flexible cable( like break cable ) you will have to make loops at each end. You can do this by welding or with items you can get at a hardware store, I mean the things where you tighten a nut and it keeps two strings together. It would be found near where you can buy rope. Make sure you get some that are small enough. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to get 4, 2 for each end, just to be sure they don't come apart. The length of the string should be slightly shorter (1/2 to 1 inch shorter) than the resting length of the leaf.

To string the leaf place one loop of you string or cable on one end of the leaf so that it fits in the grooves, then put this end on the ground preferably a hard surface like rock or cement. Stick one foot in between the string and the leaf, but make sure the loop stays in its grooves. Now comes the hard part. While pushing down with your foot, to keep the leaf in place, pull down on the top of the leaf, and slip the other loop of the string over the end and into its grooves. This is kind of tricky, but keep trying, you'll get it eventualy.

Now take your leaf, and set it in front of the nails. Push it in tight against the nails and hammer more nails in front of it to hold it in place, you don't need as many nails here, but use quite a few for stability anyway. Make sure the nails keep the leaf tight against the other nails.

Now for the trigger. Pull the bow( which is what I will now call the strung leaf ) string back as far as you can, or as far as you want it to be while in the cocked position. Mark this spot, but let go of the spring first.

(The method I will explain for making the trigger mechanism is easy to make and fix if it breaks, but it is not a very good system. If you can think of a better way. I encourage you to use it.)

Drive a nail through the spot you marked. The wood must be thin enough here for the nail to go completely throuhg with atleast a third of an inch sticking out of each side. I said to just drive the nail in, but don't. Hammer the nail in a little bit then take it out, then do this at an angle. The nail will have to be able to pivit within the wood. When you have enough room nailed out so the nail will pivit, but not loosely, hammer the nail in so the point comes out the top of the stock.

With about a third of an inch sticking out each end if there's more nail than that have the extra stick out the bottom. Test the nail to make sure it pivits, but not loosely. Now file the point of the nail, which sould be at the top of the crossbow, so that its blunt. Now hammer a nail in, solidly, about 2 inch from the nail you just put in, on the bottom of the crossbow. Put many rubber bands between this nail and the other. The rubber bands will have to be strong enough to counteract the pull of the bow. Now test the arrangement by pulling the bowstring back and putting it over the blunted nail end. Add or remove rubberbands as needed until you can pull the trigger nail with your finger and relese the string.

If the trigger is to far forward to do this while the stock is against your sholder, tie a strong string to the trigger, and make a loop at the end of this string so the loop is where you would have liked the trigger. Then you can just pull the loop. You can avoid this by planing better in advance.

Now you are pretty much done, you might want to file a groove in the exact middle of the bow so the bolts(which are the ammo of a cross bow) have a path to travel along. You might even want to put a channel for them to travel along. In fact you probably will.

Well thats about all. Experiment with your crossbow and add anything you thing will make it perform better.

NOTE: THE TRIGGER SYSTEM ON THIS CROSSBOW IS NOT VERY STABLE. DO NOT POINT IT AT ANYTHING YOU DON'T PLAN TO SHOOT! 

How to Make Poisonous Gas

 HOW 2 MAKE POISONOUS GAS

(with household materials)

It is simple enough. This is an easy way to make a poisonous gas that can kill, or at least severely injure when made. Here is what you do. Take some bleach & ammonia, and mix them together in a bottle. Shake it up a bit. DON'T BREATH IT IN. It will get warm, maybe even hot. That liquid emits a poisonous gas. Wee! Be careful with this stuff. And don't breathe it in. Thus is very harmful, you can waft a small whiff of it, but don't snort and inhale over it. It destroys your lungs. Don't know exactly how it kills but it will do the job. Although it is HIGHLY recommended that you don't kill anyone with it. You can also throw some flammable toilet bowl cleaners in it for an added effect. 

How to Make a Silencer

 A suppressor works in the same way as a car muffler. The muffler consists of chambers for the compression to be dispersed and the sound to be redirected or absorbed. Heat is also reduced throughout the muffler system. A suppressor works on the same principle. There are generally three sections to a firearm suppressor; The first stage ususally consists of something that will absorb and dissipate heat rapidly. It also allows for part of the compression to be reduced due to the quick cooling of gases. The second usually consists of rubber or plastic washers or discs that help slow down the bullet to sub sonic speeds. It also helps reduce compression. The third and more complicated stage usually consists of tall wooden washers with rubber discs between them or thick chambers of soft plastic. The end of this stage has a low wear rubber cylinder to slow down outgoing air. The entire suppressor is contained within a one and a half inch 300 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) plastic pvc pipe.

Parts list

1x 6-14inch 300psi plastic pvc pipe
10-15x Rubber or medium hardness plastic discs
11-16x Soft Wood washers with 1 1/4 inch ID
1x Rubber cylinder
5x Rubber discs
6x tall wooden washers, plain
2x steel plugs for the middle and front f the suppressor
1x heat and pressure dispersement rod with positioning rings, black.
2x stabilizer donuts to keep the suppressor straight, red.
4x separator discs, green.
1x Adapter to attach the suppressor to the firearm

Discs can be cut out with a hole saw, purchased from any local hardware store. The materials can be bought there also. Rubber or plastic can be cut out of tires or trashcans. wooden washers can be cut out of particle board. The steel plugs can be bought at any automotive store as freeze plugs. The heat and pressure rod can be bought at any metal shop; buy at 4-6 inches long Aluminium tube at about 1/8 inch thick with an ID (Internal Diameter) as close to the bullet as possible. Stabilizer donuts can be cut out of birch or oak wood and then drilled with a hole drill. All discs and inserted materials except the head rod should be slightly under 1 1/2 inch diameter so that they will fill snugly in the tube.

The heat rod should be drilled full of holes 1/4 inch from each end. These holes should be about the same size as the bullet. Leave about a quarter inch gap between each hole. Place a wooden donut at each end and wrap the rod in aluminium screen. Screw the rod into the wood or use epoxy. Place this part into the tube first, this should be very tight and could even have to be hammered into the tube, however do not use screws or glue to hammer it in place.

Now place a steel plug in the tube so that the rounded end is facing the top or exit hole. Now place the adapter in the tube followed by the stabilizer donuts. Make sure the barrel will seat securely in the adapter and that the donuts are snug on the barrel. Make sure you place a separator disc between each stage. Drill little holes in the tube about halfway into the adapter and donuts and place small screws in place to hold them securely.

Note that a small angle is cut into the adaptor to facilitate the sight of the gun. The adaptor has to be reamed at an angle so that the sight will not interfere.

Place a smaller pvc pipe in the front end and push the heat dispersement chamber up to the separator disc, next to the adaptor.

Now from the top, place a wooden washer then plastic disc, washer, disc etc. 9mm ammunition usually requires 12-15 and a 22 usually 6-9. There should be 12-15 discs and 13-16 wooden washers, do not end up with a washer, now place another separator in place.

Last you will need to insert two rubber discs and a tall wooden washer, two discs then a washer. Now place another separator in place. Place the large rubber cylinder in place, this should be about 1/2 inch thick. Place the steel plug in place so that the rounded end is facing outwards and rivet it into the front carefully.

Before using be sure there is a clean holw all the way. Use a wooden dowel to see if the suppressor is lined up with the barrel hole. All inserted parts should have a hole in the center that is comparable in size to the size of the bullet's diameter.

Things you should know;

Suppressors will slow down the bullet and cause it to defract in another direction.

Suppressors do not operate well in cold wheather but this one will for the first few hundred rounds.

If you wish to shoot full auto you must double the quantity of internal parts and use an aluminium pipe covered with neoprene sleeve, remember that metal dings.

Silencers could be illegal in some locations, be safe and know your silencer laws in your location. 

How to Make A Stungun

 How to Make A Stungun

by The Green Dean

So you want to ZaaaaaaP the shit out of someone. Well I have the thing just for you. It delivers a nice Shock of 75,000 Volts and causes muscle spasms. A word of caution don't try this on your self (Dumb Shit). Well you be need'n to go down to your local RADIO-SHACK. Yes that is what I said RADIO-SHACK where they sell shitty computers. Just for a joke tell'em you want to buy a TANDY 2000 to use for a clock, and watch'em turn red. Then say "just kidding(dick)", under your breath of course. Well enough of that shit, Here is what you need.

PARTS
=====
All resistors are 1/2 watt.Abbrv. as R1 or R2.
----------------------------------------------
R1 & R2 100,000 ohm's resistors!
R3 & R4 500,000 ohm's resistors!
----------------------------------------------
DIODES:D1-D4
Use a 75 PIV BRIDGE RECTIFIER or 4 1N9004's 300 VOLTS.
----------------------------------------------
Capacitors:
C1&C2 4700uF electrolytic
----------------------------------------------
TR1-STEP UP TRANSFORMER 55 uH AUDIO
----------------------------------------------
2 250 volt AC DPST switch
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A 9volt RECHARGEABLE/100 volt Neon lamp =L
----------------------------------------------
A 9volt battery clip/MALE-FEMALE RCA JACKS
----------------------------------------------
Some perf board,wire,solder
----------------------------------------------
9volts in
- +
/ to RCA JACK /
|---* *-------------| Use RCA JACK TO HOOK TO A RECHARGER.
| sw2 | Run JACK FROM 9V.
|----|<-----|<------|
| d1 d2 | When battery runs down Recharge it!
|----|<-----|<------|
| d3 d4 |
| |
\ /
/ R1 \ R2
\ /
| + |
|----|(-------------|
| c1 |
\ \
/ /
\ \
| R3 - | R4
|----|(-------------|
| c2 L Neon charge light/ Push sw1 to fire when light is on
|/ |
* *---------| |
sw1 | |
+ n -
=======
/\/\/\/ TR1
=======
| | needles or prods
| |
\|/ \|/

When this is built hold down sw2 until neon lamp lights. Then Stick "THE VICTIM" And press SW1 ,He will get a jolt. Well I hope you have fun. Just don't throw this into a swimming pool full of "VICTIMS"! If you do this then well You'll see!